An unwritten chapter..and a few of my favorite things

 I am back in Arizona and I must say, I am going through a difficult transition from Lisbon to the States. I miss being in Portugal. I think I could spend a lifetime there. The memories that I have will always be the sweetest feelings in my heart and I look forward to returning as soon as possible. And tonight I even made a salad with polvo in it so I am feeling even more at "home". Honestly though, it just doesn't seem to hold up to the polvo at Chapitos (sigh.)

Because of my sudden exit due to health issues with my daughter,  I realized this diary of my trip is incomplete. First, Annie has improved and although not completely well, she is on her way to recovery. So now is the time to recall some very special moments of our stay that I neglected in previous blogs.

In early November we were visited by our very dear friends from Tempe, Bonnie and Dave. They were the perfect guests who were willing to do and go to all our favorite spots in Lisbon. They got numerous hugs and kisses from Maria and we took them to meet Assim and Mohammad. How could I not show them the people that made me love Lisbon?

We would have been remiss had we not gone to Sintra.  Steve and I had been there three previous times and although I was not anxious to go again...I couldn't NOT show this place to my friends. THERE ARE MANY STAIRS TO CLIMB!!!! Plus,  I knew that once again I would be climbing the walls of the fort whose height scared the heck out of me.

I was flanked by Steve and Bonnie in fear I would have a panic attack

She LOOKS brave but she was huffing and puffing from all those steps!

We managed to do one side of the fort, but by the time we roamed the Pena Palace (again) and trudged up all the steps, we were anxious to take the train on home. Oh wait...how would we ever climb the 450 steps back to our flat???

If I had to pick the one place that I enjoyed showing visitors I would have to pick the Mosteiro dos Jerominos in Belem. The sheer expanse and grandeur of both the church and the monastery is phenomenal and I never tired of taking anyone there to visit. There is a peacefulness about the place and the best part is the story of the monks who baked the pasteis de natas to raise money for the monastery. It is thanks to them that I gained the five pounds while in Lisbon. Bonnie and Dave also had no problems enjoying these delectable pastries.

I will be learning how to make these taste treats!

me and my BF

From the monastery we took a hike over to the Royal Coach Museum and we delighted at seeing the gilded coaches that carried the queens and kings and to their palaces.

I was trying to wave like the Queen...I don't think I pulled it off

It wasn't all touristy things we did. Bonnie and Dave are great window shoppers and we had so much fun looking in store windows and seeing some crazy things to buy. Bonnie loved these shoes, but being the two tall women we are...we passed on purchasing them.

the shoes were a tad too high...and maybe a bit ostentatious!

I will say that Bonnie is dangerous. Every time I am around her I manage to spend large amounts of money on things I do not need. On one particular shopping trip we bought expensive shirts with glitzy sparkly button clips. Yeah...I will be wearing those alot!

We really had a fantastic time. We laughed, played endless hours of Wizard ( a card game I never won except for that night), ate very well and we were very sad when they left to continue their voyage cruising back to the states. They were definite 10's as houseguests!

Four very tired friends

One of these days I will put  all my pictures in an album (as promised) but for now...her are a few of my favorite friend and family pictures that were not included in prior blogs.

For now...this blog is on hold. Steve and I are hoping to spend his next sabbatical back in Portugal...the place we most love to be. So, 18 months from now..watch out Maria...Assim and Mohammad...I WILL BE BACK!

Linda and me on the castle wall

                

With Robert in Praca Figueira

with Helen at the Monastery Jeronimos

Helen and Steve at the Graca Miradour

I was asking him to "rate" the vacation from 1-10

Enjoying Ginga

My wonderful friend Dave enjoying natas in Belem

Bonnie and Dave at the Monastery

Enjoying a duplo bica

  

Now, some favorite foods....

pasteis de nata with uma bica

leitão

dessert at Chapitos

ADEUS

Obrigada Portugal....and Adeus

This will not be like my other blogs. There will be no mention of delicious foods or exciting explorations in Portugal.

It is Monday, November 22nd and my 33 year old daughter is being tested for cancer. She has been dealing with tests for two weeks and today she went through a surgical biopsy. There will be no results for three more days. The waiting is torturous. She writes of her account at: tunheimfamily.blogspot.com
She is quite a woman as you will see from her account.

CANCER...This word...so insidious...and has entered my life all too many times. I lost a best friend, the daughter of a friend and others who are close to me.

Just 18 months ago my son Matthew was diagnosed with another form of cancer...Hodgkins Lymphoma.  Fortunately, after four months of hell with chemotherapy, he is a healthy 34 year old man who is stronger and healthier than ever. We are very blessed and one of the lucky ones. Now I leave Lisbon earlier than expected to help my beautiful daughter, mother of three, fantastic wife, accomplished lawyer to fight whatever her illness might be. If it is positive for cancer then we will beat the damn thing AGAIN! We are praying for a million other things less severe. But I know she will get better!

My beautiful daughter, Annie

I do want to finish this blog on a happier note as I will one day look back on this diary and realize though it ended with difficulty, Portugal will be one of the highlights in my lifetime. I have made beautiful friends that I have spoken about in previous blogs. When I said my goodbyes this weekend, many held me and cried with me. All their prayers have filled my heart with love and best wishes for my daughter and our family. For that, I am more than blessed.

I came to a strange country not knowing the language or any person, but I leave knowing the finest of people, feeling an abundance of love in my heart and having wonderful friends. I am still not sure God exists, but I AM sure that the world is filled with incredibly warm and understanding people no matter what their culture, religion and nationality. If that is God's work....so be it. I just think people from all over the world are intrinsically GOOD DECENT PEOPLE despite some bad things that seem to plague our lives.

For four months my friend Maria and I spoke each day, never understanding the others language. We have shared our aches and pains, some laughs and numerous kisses and hugs. She has met the family and friends who have come to visit and they have all experienced her warmth.  She mended Steve's shirt when it needed mending. She cared for us. I will miss my Maria!

my lovely friend Maria

When Mohammad and Assim from Taste of Punjab found out about Annie, they prepared for me their special tea with a pastry and had me sit at their table. They comforted me with their kind words and wrote the Six Kalimas Islam (or the six words) which are prayers I am to repeat for seven days. These prayers they said, will heal my heart and help to make Annie well. I believe what they say...and I believe my daughter will get well. Mohammad and Assim are fine warm people that will be my lifelong friends and my heart hurts to leave them. On a high note, Mohammad had my very sought after copper pots waiting for me when I arrived at their wonderful restaurant yesterday. This man has spent countless hours searching and calling his friends so that I could have these pots. THANK YOU MY FRIENDS!

To the lovely women from the Fulbright foundation that made our transition from the States flawless, I am grateful. I will miss you Otilia, Carla and Paula and I thank you for your friendship and assistance. It was due to the Fulbright organization that we had the extreme pleasure to be invited to the US Ambassador's home, Alan and Nancy Katz. They are incredible people, gracious, intelligent and interesting and I am happy they are representing our country in Portugal. I also thank Fatima and the rest of the embassy staff. And of course Steve's counterpart, Antonio Granada, for wanting Steve to be at the Universidad Nova de Lisboa and to speaking to me ALWAYS about food!

Paulo, my very cute hairdresser

Isabel Santos from Chapitos

Isabel, Fernando, and Sophia...the storekeepers and the restaurant managers who remembered my name and who never once made me  feel like a stupid American for not correctly speaking their language....Obrigada, Obrigada, Obrigada! You all were always so patient and gracious with me and I will miss you all!

Writing a blog has been a wonderful experience and I am happy that I have this as a diary to look back on years from now. For those of you who have been kind enough to follow this blog, I thank you for showing interest in an old woman's ramblings about traveling and eating in another country. To my new friend Peggy who writes a great blog up in Braga, Portugal....I am sorry our opportunity to meet and dine in Porto will be missed. But hey, when you are back in Minneapolis we are a GO for a great meal.

Lastly, the most gratitude goes to my husband of 38 years who has given me a life full of travels, adventures and love. He will remain in Lisbon until December when his Fulbright post is completed. It is due to his brilliant mind that I had this terrific experience in Portugal. I hope that the next 38 will be as adventurous.

Once again Portugal, ADEUS and OBRIGADA until we meet again...and good thoughts to Annie!

Three Muslims and a Jew

Steve and I have frequented what I had first thought was an Indian restaurant on the Beco dos Surradores located on some stairs...(what a surprise) on the way up to the Castelo Sao Jorge.  It was only my stupidity thinking it was an Indian restaurant when the sign clearly states that is is "Restaurante Paquistanes, Taste of Punjab". Ok.. not Indian, but Pakistani...a close neighbor and similar cuisine. Their food in a word: DELICIOUS! The price: Incredibly reasonable. You can have a complete dinner for well under nine euros! But first....some introductions and then my story.

Taste of Punjab is not far from Rossio Square and Praça da Figueira

 The store is owned by two men: Asim and Mohammad, although Asim is also called Mohammad. I am not sure why although it was once explained to me. Asim is also the gentleman who always takes our orders and recommends different dishes to try. He doesn't like us getting the same dish each time we come in, so we take his suggestions and try new ones.

 a simple and very clean restaurant inside

Mohammad is the head chef. I believe he came from Saudi Arabia where he was an engineer. He is a warm and friendly man and it was in his restaurant that I first saw the famous copper bowls that I want to buy.  Mohammad has promised he would find some for me to purchase.  "Any day", he tells me. I wait patiently and he has my cell number. I really do want these bowls!

A third person who could be considered a sous chef is Ali. He is in charge of making the roti and the naan (two kinds of bread) and also helps prep some dishes.  Lastly there is Claudia, a Brazilian girl who helps serve, prep and clean up. Asim, Mohammad and Ali are Muslim. Oh yeah...I am Jewish. The thing I learned at the end of this is...WOW...we really are alike!!! ("We" meaning Jewish people and Muslim people. Me??? Well, I am a bit of a heathen, but still trying to figure the whole god thing even at age 60.)

Mohammad: Engineer turned restaurant owner and cook  

      

Asim: Restaurant Owner showing the history of Tandoori

Ali:master Naan and Roti maker

Claudia: Brazilian girl who helps in the restaurant

Last week while eating lunch, I asked Asim and Mohammad if I could come in and watch them cook. Happily for me they readily agreed and I showed up on their doorstop at 10:30 a.m. the very next day. While waiting for Mohammad,  a local woman named Eucilinda came in for her daily dose of bica. She sat at my table and began speaking Portuguese. I said, "Eu não fala Português" but she didn't seem to care. She continued on for twenty minutes in Portuguese telling me about her life. When it was time for her to leave, she shook my hand and said "Adeus."  I learned a little about her and her travels to Spain and France. (At least I think that's what she was telling me.) She was delightful and quite an imposing character.

Eucilinda drinking her morning bica

Mohammad had still not arrived so Ali was nice enough to explain the art of making bread. Although his English is not great, he had no problem making himself understood. After rolling out the dough he placed it on a well padded round object.   

  Then, without using an oven mitt he hurled the dough in to the side of this very hot well with red-hot coals. (He swears he has never burned himself now that he has had some practice.  This is not something I will ever attempt. I burn myself while ironing!)

see the dough stuck to the side of the wall???? AMAZING!!!!!

I thought this was all pretty awesome watching the dough cook and form its bubbles right there on the side of this well. (Watching cooking techniques has always amazed me.) Once the dough started to brown, Ali took some kebab tool, stabbed the dough, removed it, and seasoned it with garlic and herbs. Very proudly he handed the bread to me. It was warm and tasty and I devoured it.

 He is also cooks the tandoori chicken in the hot oven once it is prepared by Mohammad.

tandoori chicken

Finally Mohammad came in and started cooking. Over the course of an hour he slowly sauteed onions and carrots with many wonderful seasonings that serve as a base to all Pakistani dishes. The aromas were almost sensuous...the smell of curry and cardamom permeated throughout the kitchen. He explained how these vegetables would be added to the main dishes he would cook and serve later in the day. Many times that morning he held the spoon out for me to take my finger and taste the incredible flavors. All good chefs taste their cooking before serving, we agreed. The smells and tastes equaled perfection!

I was amazed at how tender and delicious the meat and chicken tasted. That's when I learned about Halal, a way of slaughtering meat very similar to Kosher preparation.

We decided then to take a break and drink some Chai Spice Milk Tea which Pakistanis drink every morning to calm their body and mind. It was delicious and although I am not a tea drinker, this has become a favorite of mine. I noticed that before Mohammad drank he said "Bismillah." He told me that before any endeavor, such as eating or starting on a journey, this word is said. When Mohammad explained the word, his definition was quite beautiful. He told me that saying "bismillah" allows god...or goodness... to flow through your soul. I liked that thought..and I like Mohammad. He is a kind and patient man. I try to remember to say that now before I eat and each time I see Mohammad he reminds me of the word with a smile on his face.

I was invited back the following Sunday to assist with a group of 40 people who would be coming in for a birthday party. I was really excited at the thought. But the next day I woke with a horrid cold and thought handling food would not be a good idea.  I called them to decline and hope that I will once again have the opportunity to cook with them.

You will not find The Taste of Punjab on a website...at least not yet. I have been encouraging Asim to develop one because the food is great and there are only a few Halal places to eat in Lisbon. Muslims  and others who like carefully prepared food look for this type of restaurant. I think the rest of the world needs to know how good the food is.

More than learning how to cook this wonderful cuisine, I have learned a far better lesson about friendship across cultures.  These are my first Muslim friends. They are good people...kind, loving and hard working and I am so happy to know them. I will eat at this restaurant many more times before we leave in December. But for now...Khuda-hafiz (good-bye).

Mohammad, my teacher...and me

My love of Maria-A Very Long Story

I love the people of Lisbon! From the beginning of our visit until now, I feel they are the most gracious of all peoples. It is amazing how many of the Portuguese townfolk we have become close to. On many days it is the local butcher, the restaurant manager or the shop girl that calls out to us by name. I have made it a priority to remember their names and often we will hug and kiss (both cheeks) on the street.

Adjacent to our flat is the escadinhas that we must walk down to get anywhere. When we first arrived here last August I met a woman sitting on her doorstop. At first I thought her to be elderly. Gray haired, she wore her apron- covered house dress, sturdy black shoes and she looked very much like my own grandmother who arrived from Russia in the early 1900's. Unsure of her age, I was still certain she was older than me. However, there were no lines on her face.

Each day (and I see her at least once a day) I would say Bom Dia and she would, in turn, wish me a Bom Dia with a big smile on her face. I got very use to seeing her familiar face on my treks up and down the stairs. In the warmer months I dreamed of her inviting me in for a cold drink before my last grueling stair steps back home. I told Steve that my goal was to be invited into this woman's little house on the stairs before leaving Portugal.

As the weeks wore on I would stop to talk to her before heading UP. My knees would be aching and I would moan and point to my tired legs as I passed her. She in turn would point to her own body parts that were old and tired and aching. She even raised her skirt (after looking both ways on the stairs to make sure no one else was there) and showed me her two scars from her hip operations. Finally, using many hand signals, I told her my name was Ellyn and asked what her name was. This was the start of my wonderful friendship with Maria.

I have always found it fairly easy to communicate with people from different countries without knowing their language. My own beautiful daughter- in- law is from the Czech Republic and when I first met her mother, Kristina, she spoke no English, and I, no Czech. Yet we managed to spend hours together laughing and yapping away in our own languages, somehow making ourselves understood. We started with food (of course). Cooking in the kitchen is always a great ice breaker. We taught one another many words (first, all the curse words)...and now I consider her a dear friend. I knew I could do the same with Maria.

As days passed I found myself disappointed if I didn't see Maria. So, as I passed her apartment each day I would call to her through her open window. I would hear her little voice talking to herself as she would run to the door to see me, unlocking at least five locks. Her greetings now were always the same.... multiple kisses on each cheek with tight hugs. She smelled wonderful, just like my Nanny (grandmother) did. I am not sure what her perfume is...but I bet it is Tabu, which is the dusting powder my grandmother used.

my greeting each day from Maria

Ten days ago, my brother Robert and his wife Helen arrived for a visit. I, of course, told them all about Maria and as we trudged down the stairs I called out to her. I managed to make the introductions and she seemed to understand who everyone was. She particularly loves Steve and goes on and on to me in Portuguese about how handsome and strong he is. Before long, she was kissing the rest of them and that routine continued throughout their visit. One day Helen and I knocked on her door to bring her some pasteis de natas and some chocolate heart cookies that I bought from the bakery. I attached a note (written in Portuguese) telling her she was the sweetest woman in Portugal so I was bringing her some sweets. She seemed quite overwhelmed with her present because there were tears in her eyes as she gave out her wonderful kisses to us both.

The following evening I decided to invite Maria for dinner. I wrote her a long note in Portuguese (with the help of Google Translate) and knocked on her door. A young friend had also stopped to talk to her. When I handed Maria the note she handed it to her friend who read it out loud. It was then I suspected that Maria perhaps could not read. Having been brought up during the reign of Salazar, Maria's education was limited if not non-existent. During his dictatorship, Salazar frowned on any education and only an elite few managed to attend grade school and higher education. I found it quite sad to learn about his government. (check out: Salazar). After getting the invitation, Maria refused...going on and on about my living in a palace...(which of course we don't)...and making some other excuses I couldn't understand. Hoping she would change her mind, I went to pick her up at 7pm only to find her in pajamas and fuzzy slippers. She hugged and kissed and sent me on her way.

The next morning before even showering, I quickly dressed and Helen and I brought Maria some leftovers of frango and arroz (chicken and rice). Much to my delight, Maria invited Helen and me inside her home.

Maria's tiny bedroom

This beautiful, tiny woman with a very large heart began sharing her life with me. She showed me family photos and talked about her love of her dad. Surprisingly, I was beginning to understand her as she talked slowly in Portuguese. I learned that she is 64 years of age (only four years older than me.) I learned that she has lived 40 years in this tiny home with large pieces of furniture that I found difficult to maneuver around. Everything was immaculate and she even opened bureau drawers to show her underthings neatly folded and strangely, a huge number of bath towels folded in the dining room hutch drawers. If I had to guess I would say her home is less than 400 square feet, but every inch was filled with beautiful things that told me so much about her. It was warm and comfortable and perfect for Maria who lived there now all alone.

Yesterday we were all walking up the hill from one of our last expeditions before Helen and Robert returned to the U.S. Ahead I saw my wonderful friend trudging to her home with some groceries. I ran up to her,  took her arm and insisted that she come to my apartment for a drink...NO EXCUSES. The poor thing probably thought she was being kidnapped, but Steve took her arm (she can't resist him) and led her up to our flat.

Once there, I filled these miniature chocolate cups with Ginja and Maria, Helen and I sat on the porch drinking and talking. I brought the computer out with me and once again using Google translate, asked her more questions in Portuguese about her ife. How she understood me I will never know. My accent is horrific, but I did manage to find out she had a husband that died 16 years ago of some stomach ailment, the number of siblings she had and what her children do for a living.

We had a wonderful time and I even showed her pictures of my children and grandchildren and she asked many questions about each of them. I told her I would so appreciate her helping me with my Portuguese and she readily agreed. Immediately she pointed to different things in the apartment naming them in Portuguese. Now I have a teacher!!!   Finally, it was time for her to leave and after the expected warm hugs and kisses, she walked on home. It was a lovely afternoon!

So now, I know have a friend for life. It will be sad when I have to leave Portugal for many reasons, but mostly, I will be sad to leave Maria.

Eu adoro minha amiga, Maria

The Barefoot Contessa in Lisbon: "Recipe Night"

Saturday, October 9

Eating is not my only hobby. Cooking is also a passion of mine, and by no means am I comparing myself to Ina Garten (a.k.a. The Barefoot Contessa) who is an exceptionally wonderful cook with her own television show. (I am jealous!) I am, however, a pretty good cook. In the States, I own a small catering company called Gourmet Delights with my partner Cassy and we are always trying new and interesting recipes although I don't think any my clients are ready for octopus!

The "barefoot" reference is for the blisters still healing on my foot, so I do remain barefoot as much as possible. The Contessa part....???? Well....The Urban Dictionary defines "contessa" as a supreme goddess and a wonderful woman; a lady in her own right. Okay so maybe that's pushing it a little, but I can say my sweet and loving husband treats me as if I were a Contessa and perhaps it's because he likes my cooking! Nonetheless, to my friends and family at home...just pretend.....ok?

Tonight I made arroz de tamboril, a wonderful dish with monkfish, rice, prawns and chorizo sausage. The recipe I found was printed years ago in the Sunday London Times, but I have changed it a bit. It is really good and very easy to make. I am sharing it with you because if you find cooking a chore, this one is easy. It is similar to a paella or a jambalaya, but with a little more liquid. I served it with a wonderful Portuguese white wine called Serras De Azeitão. We like spicy things so I season pretty heavily, although this recipe is fairly mild. Use your judgment. We nearly licked our plates it was so good! Also great with a nice crusty bread!

 Serves 4

1 and 1/2 pounds monkfish fillets
8 raw prawns, peeled
4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 sweet red pepper, finely chopped
2 chorizo sausages, sliced (mild or hot)
2 large tomatoes, chopped
4 and 1/2 cups hot stock (vegetable or fish ) 
1 cup white wine
2 cups risotto rice
1 tsp Spanish paprika 
1 red thai chili pepper sliced. (this is optional. But leave in the seeds if you like it hot!)
2 bay leaves
Sea salt and black pepper
2 tbsp flat parsley leaves, torn
1 lemon

METHOD
Cut the fish into healthy, bite-sized pieces.
Heat half the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the fish and prawns on all sides until they change color. Remove to a plate and season well. Add the remaining oil and cook the onion, garlic, red peppers, and chorizo and fry for 10 minutes, stirring well. Add the tomatoes, stock or water and bring to the boil. Add the (unwashed) rice, paprika, bay leaves, salt and pepper, stirring well.
Reduce the heat to very low, cover and simmer for 20 minutes until the rice is almost cooked but still a little wet and soupy (add more stock if not). Add the monkfish, prawns and parsley and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Scatter with parsley and serve in warm pasta bowls, with lemon wedges for squeezing. And of course, accompany with a nice Portuguese white wine! :)

my favorite white wine

Sunday, October 10

We walked up to Graça today in the rain because we were short of wine. That's an emergency!!!  As always, we carefully trudged up the hill with our little cart, hoping not to slip on the cobblestones. At the Pingo grocery market we got the following: milk, a loaf of bread, a whole cut-up chicken, a nice bottle of 10 year old port, three bottles of GREAT Portuguese wine which is $3.50 USD each, two boxes of raspberries, one apple, one potato. Total cost was 29 euros which is $40.25 USD. The port was the most expensive thing we bought which came to $12. I am definitely NOT leaving here. I could support my wine addiction and not feel bad I was breaking the bank.

our groceries

 Steve was amused as he photographed this women lumbering down the hill with her packages. This looks like a typical elderly Portuguese woman walking home during a rain storm. Wait...this hideously dressed woman who is far too tall to be Portuguese is none other than...(argh) me. Unfortunately. But really...it is hard to see, but it was pouring and I wasn't going to run into anyone I knew, was I?

an old, very unstylish woman

And finally, I have decided to give special kudos to our best restaurant of the week. By far, the award goes to Casa do Leão at my Castelo de São Jorge. 

Our table, situated by the beautifully arched window, tells its own story about the wonderful paradise that surrounds us. Food, ambiance and service was 5 stars and although it was our most expensive restaurant (we spent 112 Euros), it was worth every cent. (By the way, most of our dining experiences are no more than 30-40 euros for us both.)

view from our table on the castle grounds

We immediately made friends with Fernando, the maître d' who promised us that every time we came in we could have table #2 with this lovely view. They brought us out the traditional olive plate, and bread, but then served us samplings of pate and a plate with three kinds of warm sausage. Then, the meal we ordered was brought out. First there was shrimp, foie gras and then our main course. I got a wonderful monk fish lightly fried with sesame seeds that sat over a bed of wild rice. With that was crisp broccoli, perched on a creamy curry sauce laced with sweet, plump currants. TO DIE FOR!!!

crispy monk fish medallions in a warm curry sauce

Steve ate Pork Cheeks in a tangy warm gravy 

"I liked MINE, Ellie"

 I love this castle and the feeling as you walk around the magnificent surroundings under a lush canopy of trees and stone archways. And now, I even love the food. We will return many times!

For now, adeus and love from Steve and me.